Twelve inches of fresh powder had just fallen at Eaglecrest Ski Area in Juneau, Alaska, when I arrived for my first day of skiing last February. Snow packed the slumping branches of towering pines and frosted the beards of draping moss. From the chairlift, skiers below me appeared from the thighs up, their lower halves plowing fresh tracks. Whoops of delight rang out from sources unseen.