I think we can all agree, 2024 was a year.
There were a lot of highlights: Masako Morishita of Perry’s won the James Beard Award for Best Emerging Chef. That same night, Michael Rafidi took home the medal for Outstanding Chef, and in the ensuing months opened a second, kebab-centric Yellow in the Union Market neighborhood with vibey Levantine bar-bistro La’ Shukran upstairs, while just around the corner, another James Beard Award winner, Edward Lee, debuted the sustainably minded Korean tasting menu restaurant Shia. Reverie rose from the ashes. Kwame Onwuachi returned to town with Dōgon. People couldn’t stop drinking espresso martinis and orange crushes. The D.C. episode of Somebody Feed Phil dropped on Netflix, celebrating notable spots, including Anju, Stachowski’s, Rasika, Thip Khao, and Maketto. (As a note: I was in the show.)
And then there were the lowlights. &pizza decided a smart marketing tactic would be to offer a cocaine-themed, Marion Barry-inspired dessert, but it (obviously) turned out to be a terrible idea and was quickly yanked. Political Pattie’s opened with the goal of “putting the ‘lit’ back in politics,” but only lasted 75 days. (That’s 12.5 Scaramuccis in D.C.-speak) And influencer Keith Lee came to town to eat at a bunch of carry-out spots in the DMV and pooh-pooh the whole dining scene. (He can fuck right off; a sentiment I’m sure San Francisco would echo.)
But now there’s a whole new year ahead of us. What might 2025 hold? I asked some of the city’s best chefs to tell us what they’re seeing in their crystal balls.
“We’re going to see a lot of upscale casual and fine dining renditions of Latin American cuisine,” predicted Paola Velez, co-chef and co-owner of Providencia and author of the recently published cookbook, Bodega Bakes. “We’re already seeing the rise of Pascual, Mita, Causa, and even our bar, Providencia. Seeing the community win will inspire more folks to take a leap of faith to explore their heritage and culture.”
Meanwhile, Suresh Sundas, chef of Daru and the forthcoming Tapori, expects West African foods, such as jollof rice, suya skewers, and egusi stew to have a moment.
On the dessert side of the equation, “I’m finding diners are more open to savory-sweet desserts than ever before,” says Rochelle Cooper, pastry chef for Eastern Point Collective, which own The Duck & The Peach, La Collina, and other concepts. “I love using the florality of a habanada pepper, earthy fig leaf, or sweet potato into my creations.”
Sébastien Giannini, partner chef of L’Avant-Garde thinks the most notable shift in diners’ taste will be format-driven toward bistros and casual restaurants. “People want to eat well and for it not to be too expensive,” he says.
Pepe Moncayo, chef of Cranes and the just-opened Arrels, agrees with this assessment. “Affordability combined with great quality will take center stage,” he says “Fine dining and high-ticket restaurants may face increasing challenges as diners seek experiences that deliver value without breaking the bank. This could pave the way for more creative, casual concepts that prioritize accessibility while maintaining excellent standards.”
“Technology will continue to transform the dining experience on every level,” predicts Tatiana Mora, co-owner and co-chef of Mita. “We might see personalized menus, AI-created recipes, or even robots assisting in kitchens, which could displace human labor,” she adds.
When asked about the biggest challenges chefs expect to face in the new year, almost all mentioned the rising costs of food, labor, operations, and rent. “The real challenge will be finding a way to manage those costs without pushing prices too high for guests,” says Paul Taylor, co-owner of Your Only Friend.
“Chefs need to stay sharp,” Sundas adds. “It’s about creating dishes that respect both the budget and the palate. We’ve got to be smart with ingredients, minimize waste, and balance creativity with cost-effectiveness to keep plates full and guests happy.”
Several chefs, including Velez, expressed concern over the impact of the tariffs President-elect Donald Trump is threatening to levy against key trading partners, including Mexico and Canada. Cooper lamented that they might price out certain imported ingredients, like jamon de bellota, high-quality matcha, and canela.
Additionally, finding qualified, or even trainable, employees remains a top-of-mind concern. “I think the lack of staff will continue to be a major issue—it’s difficult to retain talent,” says Mora.
Consciousness about the health of the planet was also top of mind. “Sustainability is no longer a choice; it’s a responsibility,” says Sundas. “Sourcing locally, reducing waste, and running an eco-friendly kitchen takes effort and creativity. But honoring the seasons, supporting ethical producers, and cutting our footprint will be important.”
Perhaps 2025 will be the year some wrongs will be righted. “I think we’ve often been too focused on the excitement of new openings, which makes sense given all the buzz around major launches,” says Matt Adler, chef and partner of Cucina Morini and Caruso’s Grocery. “But moving forward, I hope the D.C. dining scene will shift toward supporting the older, cherished establishments in the city. These restaurants often need the community’s patronage to thrive, and it would be great to see us all take more of an interest in keeping these iconic spots alive and well.”
Given the number of heartbreaking closures this year, including Convivial, Charlie Palmer Steak, Slash Run, Bar Spero, Crisfield Seafood, Almeda, BLT Steak, Corduroy, Duplex Diner, Marcel’s, Philotimo, Destino, and Las Gemelas, I couldn’t agree more.
Chefs also didn’t hold back when given the chance to kvetch about the trends they hope will fizzle over the next 12 months. Mora is cheering on the demise of “Instagrammable dishes that look amazing but taste mediocre,” as well as “overly expensive tasting menus that don’t justify their price. And pointless fusions—enough with mixing things just for the sake of mixing.”
And referencing all the croissant mash-ups, Cooper asked: “And can we stop trying to reinvent the croissant?” (Coincidentally, I’m beyond obsessed with the circular ones at Petite Cerise.) “The cronut was great, but I think it’s gone too far.”
For Giannini, the trend he hopes will die is the out-of-town concepts opening D.C. locations. He calls them “copy and paste” efforts lacking “local authenticity.” Though he didn’t name any names, there was no shortage of such debuts in 2024, including Osteria Mozza, Pastis, restaurateur Keith McNally‘s Minetta Tavern, a.kitchen, Gordon Ramsay’s Street Pizza, and La Grand Boucherie.
Adler noted that it “felt like the year of Italian restaurant openings, Cucina Morini included. Hopefully there are not too many more new Italian spots on the horizon. Just kidding, I never mind a little healthy competition.”
And though I never mind a good plate of pasta or a perfectly fired pizza, the point is well taken.
Here’s to eating the things you love in 2025, but also pushing yourself to try new cuisines, ingredients, and restaurants. May it be a year of discovery and revelation.